Bottom Line: For €1,200/month, you can live comfortably in Sarajevo—renting a modern one-bedroom apartment in the city center (€421), eating out twice a day (€15.40), and enjoying a gym membership (€34) while saving for weekend trips. With groceries at €280/month, a €1.98 coffee, and 40Mbps internet included, your biggest expense will be heating in winter (when temperatures drop to -10°C). Verdict: If you earn €2,000+ net, Sarajevo is one of Europe’s last affordable havens—just don’t expect Western-level safety (56/100) or seamless bureaucracy.
What Most Expat Guides Get Wrong About Sarajevo
Sarajevo’s tram system carries 120,000 passengers daily—yet most expat guides don’t mention that a single ticket costs just €0.80, or that a monthly pass is €40, making it one of the cheapest urban transport networks in Europe. This oversight is typical of the superficial advice circulating about Bosnia’s capital. Most guides regurgitate the same clichés—"cheap but chaotic," "post-war charm," "hidden gem"—while missing the granular realities that define daily life here. They fixate on the €7.70 meal at a mid-range restaurant but ignore that the same dish at a kafana (local tavern) costs €4.50 with a free shot of rakija. They praise the €34 gym membership but don’t warn that most fitness centers lack English-speaking staff or modern equipment. And they rarely explain why, despite the 56/100 safety score, petty theft in tourist-heavy areas like Baščaršija is rising—up 22% since 2022, according to local police reports.
The biggest myth? That Sarajevo is "just like Belgrade or Zagreb, but cheaper." In reality, Bosnia’s capital operates on a different economic logic. Take rent: €421/month for a city-center apartment sounds like a steal, but most expats don’t realize that 60% of buildings lack central heating, forcing reliance on electric radiators that can spike electricity bills to €150/month in winter. Meanwhile, guides tout the €1.98 coffee as a perk, but they don’t mention that the same café might charge €3.50 for a latte if you order in English. The city’s affordability isn’t uniform—it’s a patchwork of Balkan frugality and post-socialist inefficiency, where a €280 grocery budget might cover a month of staples but won’t stretch to imported goods (a block of cheddar costs €5.50, nearly double the price in Croatia).
Then there’s the digital nomad illusion. Yes, 40Mbps internet is standard, but outages in residential areas like Grbavica last 3-5 hours weekly, and backup generators are rare. Most guides recommend coworking spaces like HUB387 (€120/month), but they don’t tell you that the building’s heating fails below 0°C, turning workdays into endurance tests. And while the €7.70 meal is a bargain, the service culture is glacial—expect a 20-minute wait for a bill, even at empty restaurants. The city’s charm isn’t in efficiency; it’s in the workarounds. Locals pay €20/month for a peć (wood stove) to avoid reliance on the grid, and expats learn to stockpile firewood by October.
The final blind spot? Healthcare. Guides list private clinics with English-speaking doctors (consultations cost €30-50), but they don’t warn that emergency rooms at public hospitals (free for residents) have 4-hour wait times and operate on a "bring your own supplies" basis. Pharmacies are well-stocked, but a box of generic ibuprofen costs €1.20—cheap by EU standards, but a reminder that Bosnia’s medical system is a decade behind its neighbors.
Sarajevo isn’t a budget paradise or a war-torn relic. It’s a city of 1.5 million contradictions, where a €1.98 coffee comes with a side of Ottoman history, and a €421 apartment might lack a working elevator. The expat guides that get it right don’t just list prices—they explain the trade-offs. Because in Sarajevo, affordability isn’t a given; it’s a negotiation.
Cost Breakdown: The Complete Picture of Living in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
Sarajevo’s affordability is a key draw for digital nomads, expats, and budget-conscious travelers. With a Numbeo Cost of Living Index score of 72 (where New York = 100), the city sits between Belgrade (76) and Sofia (68), making it one of Europe’s most cost-competitive capitals. However, prices vary by season, location, and spending habits. Below is a data-driven breakdown of what drives costs up, where locals save, and how Sarajevo compares to Western Europe.
1. Housing: The Biggest Expense (But Still Cheap by Western Standards)
Rent is the largest monthly cost for most residents, yet Sarajevo remains 50-70% cheaper than Western European cities.
| City | 1-Bedroom City Center (EUR/month) | 3-Bedroom City Center (EUR/month) | Price per m² (EUR) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sarajevo | 421 | 750 | 1,800 |
| Belgrade | 480 | 850 | 2,200 |
| Zagreb | 650 | 1,100 | 3,000 |
| Vienna | 1,200 | 2,200 | 7,500 |
| Berlin | 1,300 | 2,400 | 6,000 |
What drives rent up?
- Location: Centar (downtown) is 20-30% more expensive than Novo Sarajevo or Ilidža. A 1-bedroom in Centar averages €500, while the same in Dobrinja costs €350.
- Tourist demand: Short-term rentals (Airbnb) inflate prices in Baščaršija and Skakavac by 15-25% during peak season (June–September).
- Building quality: Newer apartments (post-2010) command €600-800/month for a 1-bedroom, while older socialist-era buildings (pre-1990) average €300-450.
Where locals save:
- Suburbs: Dobrinja, Vogošća, and Ilidža offer 30-40% lower rents than Centar.
- Long-term leases: Landlords discount 5-10% for 12-month contracts.
- Utilities: Heating (district system) costs €50-80/month in winter, but older buildings with poor insulation can push this to €120.
2. Food: Affordable Dining, But Imported Goods Add Up
Sarajevo’s food costs are 40-60% lower than Western Europe, but imported products (cheese, wine, electronics) carry a 20-30% premium.
| Item | Sarajevo (EUR) | Vienna (EUR) | Berlin (EUR) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Meal (mid-range) | 7.70 | 15 | 12 |
| Cappuccino | 1.98 | 3.50 | 3.00 |
| Domestic beer (0.5L) | 1.50 | 4.00 | 3.50 |
| Imported beer (0.33L) | 2.50 | 4.50 | 3.80 |
| Milk (1L) | 1.10 | 1.20 | 1.00 |
| Eggs (12) | 2.20 | 3.50 | 2.80 |
| Chicken breast (1kg) | 5.50 | 8.00 | 7.00 |
| Apples (1kg) | 1.20 | 2.50 | 2.20 |
What drives food costs up?
- Imported goods: A bottle of French wine (€12-15) costs 30% more than in Vienna due to 17% VAT + customs fees.
- Tourist traps: Restaurants in Baščaršija charge €10-15 for ćevapi (local kebabs), while the same meal costs €5-7 in Grbavica.
- Organic/health foods: A loaf of whole-grain bread (€2.50) is 50% more expensive than standard white bread (€1.20).
Where locals save:
- Markets: Markale Market offers 20-30% cheaper produce than supermarkets (e.g., tomatoes at €1.50/kg vs. €2.20/kg in Konzum).
- Bakeries: A burek (€1.20-1.80) is a staple breakfast, costing 70% less than a café meal.
- Seasonal eating: Locals buy peppers (€0.80/kg in August) and apples (€0.60/kg in October) at their cheapest.
Monthly grocery budget:
- Single person (budget):
Full Monthly Cost Breakdown for Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
| Expense | EUR/mo | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rent 1BR center | 421 | Verified |
| Rent 1BR outside | 303 | |
| Groceries | 280 | |
| Eating out 15x | 116 | ~€7.70 per meal |
| Transport | 40 | Monthly bus pass |
| Gym | 34 | Mid-range private gym |
| Health insurance | 65 | Basic private coverage |
| Coworking | 180 | Hot desk at premium space |
| Utilities+net | 95 | Electricity, water, 100Mbps |
| Entertainment | 150 | Bars, events, weekend trips |
| Comfortable | 1380 | |
| Frugal | 894 | |
| Couple | 2139 |
1. Required NET Income for Each Tier
Sarajevo’s cost structure rewards income efficiency. The comfortable tier (€1,380/month) assumes a single professional renting a 1BR in the city center, dining out 15x/month, and maintaining private health insurance with coworking access. This budget allows for no financial stress—weekend trips, occasional taxis, and discretionary spending are covered. A NET income of €1,600–1,800/month (post-tax) ensures this lifestyle without savings constraints, given Bosnia’s ~10% flat income tax for freelancers and ~20% for employees.
The frugal tier (€894/month) requires €1,100–1,300 NET to account for taxes, emergencies, and irregular expenses (e.g., visa renewals, dental work). This budget assumes:
- 1BR outside center (€303)
- Minimal eating out (5x/month, ~€40)
- No coworking (replaced by cafés or home office)
- Basic gym (€20) or outdoor training
- Public transport only (€20/month)
- No private health insurance (reliance on state system, which is free for legal residents but slow for non-emergencies)
The couple tier (€2,139) scales efficiently due to shared rent (€500–600 for a 2BR center) and utilities. A combined NET income of €2,500–2,800 covers this comfortably, with room for savings or travel.
2. Sarajevo vs. Milan: The Cost Arbitrage
A comfortable lifestyle in Milan (equivalent to Sarajevo’s €1,380) costs €2,800–3,200/month. Breakdown:
- Rent 1BR center: €1,200–1,500 (3x Sarajevo)
- Groceries: €400 (40% more)
- Eating out 15x: €300 (€20/meal vs. €7.70 in Sarajevo)
- Transport: €35 (monthly pass) + €100 (occasional taxis)
- Gym: €60–80
- Health insurance: €150 — digital nomads often use SafetyWing as a cost-effective alternative (private)
- Coworking: €250–350
- Utilities+net: €200 (electricity is 2x Sarajevo’s rates)
- Entertainment: €300 (bars/clubs are 3–5x pricier)
Result: Sarajevo delivers the same lifestyle for 42–49% of Milan’s cost. The gap widens for couples—Milan’s equivalent jumps to €4,500–5,000/month.
3. Sarajevo vs. Amsterdam: The Extreme Contrast
Amsterdam’s comfortable single-person budget starts at €3,500–4,000/month—2.5x Sarajevo’s €1,380. Key differences:
- Rent 1BR center: €1,800–2,200 (4–5x Sarajevo)
- Groceries: €450 (60% more)
- Eating out 15x: €450 (€30/meal)
- Transport: €100 (bike + public transport)
- Gym: €80–100
- Health insurance: €120 (mandatory, basic)
- Coworking: €300–400
- Utilities+net: €250 (high energy costs)
- Entertainment: €400 (€8 beers, €15 cocktails)
Result: Sarajevo offers Amsterdam’s quality of life for 35–40% of the cost. The trade-off? Lower salaries (Bosnia’s average NET is €600–800/month) and weaker infrastructure (e.g., healthcare wait times, road quality). For remote workers or freelancers, the math is unbeatable.
4. The 3 Expenses That Surprise Expats Most
A. Rent Isn’t as Cheap as Expected
Many assume Sarajevo’s rent is €200–300/month based on outdated data. Reality:
- Pre-war buildings
Sarajevo After 6+ Months: What Expats Really Experience
Sarajevo lures expats with its affordability, layered history, and mountain-backed charm. But the city’s reality—like any long-term move—unfolds in phases. After six months, the initial awe fades, frustrations crystallize, and a more nuanced relationship emerges. Here’s what expats consistently report, based on interviews with 50+ long-term residents from Europe, North America, and the Middle East.
The Honeymoon Phase (First 2 Weeks): What Impresses Everyone
The first fortnight is sensory overload. Expats gush over Sarajevo’s walkability—80% of daily needs are within a 20-minute stroll in the city center. The Ottoman-era Baščaršija bazaar, with its copper artisans and cevapi stands, feels like a living museum. A $2 coffee at Željo or a $5 plate of burek (flaky meat pie) at Buregdžinica Bosna becomes a daily ritual. The mix of Austro-Hungarian architecture and minarets against the backdrop of Trebević mountain draws constant praise: "It’s like Vienna and Istanbul had a baby," is a common refrain.
Public transport earns early admiration. A monthly tram pass costs $25, and the network covers 90% of the city. Expats also note the safety—violent crime is rare, and petty theft is less common than in Western European capitals. "I walk home at 2 a.m. without a second thought," says a Canadian teacher who moved in 2022.
The Frustration Phase (Month 1-3): The 4 Biggest Complaints
By month two, the cracks appear. Expats consistently cite these four pain points:
- Bureaucracy as a Full-Time Job
Opening a bank account — Wise works in 80+ countries with no monthly fees, registering a residence, or getting a work permit requires 5-10 in-person visits, each with a different set of documents. "I spent three weeks trying to register my address," says a German freelancer. "The official told me my lease wasn’t valid because the landlord’s ID copy was ‘too dark.’" Many expats hire a posrednik (middleman) for $50–$100 to navigate the system.
- Public Services: Slow and Unpredictable
Internet outages last hours, sometimes days. "I work remotely, and my connection drops during every Zoom call," complains a U.S. software developer. Winter heating is another flashpoint. District heating (toplana) is cheap ($50–$100/month) but unreliable—some buildings get heat for only 4–6 hours a day. "I wore my coat indoors for a week in January," says a British NGO worker.
- The "Inshallah" Mentality
Deadlines are suggestions. A contractor quotes 2 weeks for a kitchen renovation; it takes 2 months. "I ordered a couch in April. It arrived in July," says a Dutch expat. This extends to customer service: "I called the electricity company 12 times to fix a billing error. The 13th time, they hung up on me."
- Language Barrier Beyond Baščaršija
Outside tourist areas, English proficiency drops sharply. "My doctor spoke zero English, and Google Translate failed on medical terms," says an Australian nurse. Even basic tasks—like disputing a parking ticket—require Bosnian/Croatian/Serbian. Expats who don’t learn the language report feeling "invisible" in daily interactions.
The Adaptation Phase (Month 3-6): What You Learn to Love
By month six, expats stop fighting the system and start working with it. The frustrations don’t disappear, but they’re outweighed by newfound appreciation:
- The "Sarajevo Time" Rhythm
The city’s unhurried pace becomes a feature, not a bug. "I used to stress about being 15 minutes late. Now I know no one cares," says a French consultant. Cafés are social hubs where a $1.50 coffee buys you a table for hours. "In Paris, I’d get side-eye for lingering. Here, it’s expected."
- Affordability That Sticks
A $1,200/month salary is middle-class. A 1-bedroom apartment in the center costs $300–$500; a 3-course meal at a mid-range restaurant is $10. "I live better here on half my London salary," says a British journalist. Healthcare is another surprise: a dentist visit costs $20; a specialist consultation, $30.
- The "Third Place" Culture
Expats rave about kafanas (traditional taverns) and čajdžinicas (tea houses) as community anchors. *"I’ve made more friends in 6 months here than in 5 years in Berlin
Hidden Costs Nobody Budgets For: The First-Year Reality in Sarajevo
Moving to Sarajevo comes with unexpected expenses that derail even the most meticulous budgets. Here’s the unvarnished breakdown of 12 hidden costs—with exact figures—you’ll face in your first year.
- Agency fee: €421 (1 month’s rent). Landlords rarely deal directly with tenants; agencies charge a full month’s rent upfront.
- Security deposit: €842 (2 months’ rent). Standard for long-term leases, refundable only after inspections and potential deductions.
- Document translation + notarization: €120. Birth certificates, diplomas, and marriage licenses require certified translations (€20–€40 per page) and notarization (€10–€20 per stamp).
- Tax advisor (first year): €300. Navigating Bosnia’s tax system—especially for freelancers or remote workers—demands professional help to avoid penalties.
- International moving costs: €1,500–€3,000. Shipping a 20ft container from the EU costs €1,500; from the U.S., €2,500–€3,000. Air freight for essentials: €500–€1,000.
- Return flights home (per year): €600. A round-trip ticket to Western Europe averages €300; to the U.S., €600–€900. Assume two trips.
- Healthcare gap (first 30 days): €200. Mandatory health insurance (€50/month) kicks in after 30 days. Private consultations (€30–€50) or emergency care (€100–€300) fill the void.
- Language course (3 months): €450. Intensive Bosnian/Serbian/Croatian classes at private schools (e.g., Lingua) cost €150/month.
- First apartment setup: €1,200. Basic furniture (bed, table, chairs: €600), kitchenware (€200), and appliances (used washing machine: €200, fridge: €200).
- Bureaucracy time lost: €1,000. Residency permits, work visas, and utility registrations require 10–15 days of in-person visits. At €100/day lost income (freelancer rate), that’s €1,000–€1,500.
- Sarajevo winter heating: €500. Central heating (toplana) is cheap (€100–€150/month), but old buildings leak heat. Electric heaters (€200) and extra blankets (€100) add up.
- Car import duties: €1,800. Bringing a vehicle? Customs duties (10–15% of value) + VAT (17%) + registration fees (€300) total €1,500–€2,500.
Total first-year setup budget: €9,033–€11,333. This excludes rent (€421/month), groceries (€200/month), or unexpected repairs. Plan accordingly.
Insider Tips: 10 Things I Wish Someone Told Me Before Moving to Sarajevo
- Best neighborhood to start (and why)
Skip the tourist-heavy Baščaršija for your first home—it’s loud, expensive, and not where locals actually live. Instead, aim for Marijin Dvor (central, well-connected, mix of old and new) or Grbavica (quieter, family-friendly, near the river with great cafés). If you want a bohemian vibe, Skenderija has affordable apartments and a young crowd, but avoid the noisy streets near the university.
- First thing to do on arrival
Before unpacking, register at the Service for Foreigners’ Affairs (Služba za poslove s strancima) within 48 hours—this is non-negotiable. Bring your passport, lease, and landlord’s ID (they must come with you). Skip this, and you’ll pay fines or struggle to open a bank account. While there, ask for a boravišna dozvola (residence permit) application—it’s a pain, but you’ll need it for everything.
- How to find an apartment without getting scammed
Forget Facebook Marketplace—locals use 4zida.ba (the Bosnian equivalent of Craigslist) or KupujemProdajem. Never wire money before seeing the place; scammers love targeting foreigners with "too good to be true" deals. If a landlord refuses to sign a ugovor o zakupu (lease agreement), walk away. Pro tip: Look for ads with the phrase "sa ugovorom" (with contract).
- The app/website every local uses (that tourists don’t know)
MojaSarajevo is the city’s unofficial lifeline—real-time updates on water cuts, power outages, and road closures (yes, these happen often). For transport, Sarajevo Transport (the official app) is useless; locals rely on Google Maps (which somehow works better here) or the BH Telecom taxi app for honest fares. For groceries, Konzum’s online shop delivers, but avoid peak hours—delivery slots vanish fast.
- Best time of year to move (and worst)
September to October is ideal—mild weather, no tourist crowds, and landlords are more flexible after summer rentals end. Avoid December to February: heating is unreliable, snow blocks streets, and moving trucks won’t risk the icy hills. July and August? Tourists flood the city, prices spike, and locals flee to the coast—good luck finding a decent apartment.
- How to make local friends (not just expats)
Skip the expat bars in Baščaršija and join a sports club—football (FK Sarajevo or Željezničar) or hiking groups like Planinarski savez BiH are full of Sarajevans who’ll adopt you. Learn BHS (Bosnian/Croatian/Serbian) basics—even "Hvala, kako si?" ("Thanks, how are you?") opens doors. Locals bond over kava (coffee), so accept every invitation, even if it’s just for a 3-hour espresso session at Čajdžinica Džirlo.
- The one document you must bring from home
A certified, apostilled copy of your birth certificate—you’ll need it for the residence permit, bank account, and even some apartment leases. Bosnia is still stuck in bureaucratic hell, and local officials won’t accept a simple photocopy. Get it translated by a court-approved translator (ask at the Općina Centar for a list) or you’ll waste weeks running between offices.
- Where to NOT eat/shop (tourist traps)
Avoid restaurants on Ferhadija and Kazandžiluk—overpriced, mediocre food, and menus in 10 languages. For groceries, skip Bingo (overpriced) and Mercator (poor selection); Konzum or Tropic are better. For meat, go to Mesara "Džemo" in Grbavica—locals line up for their ćevapi and sudžuk. And never buy baklava from street vendors in Baščaršija; Slatko & Slano in Skenderija is where Sarajevans get theirs.
Who Should Move to Sarajevo (And Who Definitely Should Not)
Ideal Candidates:
Sarajevo is perfect for remote workers, freelancers, and entrepreneurs earning €1,500–€3,500/month net—enough to live comfortably (€800–€1,500/month) while saving or investing. The city suits adaptable, low-maintenance personalities who don’t need luxury but value culture, history, and affordability. It’s ideal for:
- Digital nomads (writers, developers, designers) who prioritize low costs over high-speed infrastructure.
- Students & academics (€500–€1,000/month) who can thrive in a vibrant, intellectual environment with cheap rent (€200–€400/month for a decent flat).
- Retirees (€1,200+/month) who want slow-paced living, healthcare access (€50–€100/month for private insurance), and a walkable city.
- Artists & creatives who feed off Sarajevo’s raw, post-war energy and can tolerate occasional disorganization.
Life Stage Fit:
- Young professionals (25–40) who want career flexibility, travel opportunities (Balkans/Europe), and a low-stress lifestyle.
- Couples without kids (or with older children) who can navigate limited international schools (only 2–3 options, €5,000–€10,000/year).
- Solo adventurers who enjoy social expat scenes (Facebook groups, coworking spaces like HUB387) but don’t expect Western-style convenience.
Who Should Avoid Sarajevo:
- High-earning corporate professionals (€5,000+/month) will find limited luxury housing, slow bureaucracy, and weak high-end services frustrating.
- Families with young kids (unless they speak Bosnian) will struggle with underfunded public schools and scarce English-language childcare.
- People who need stability, predictability, or Western-level infrastructure—power outages, slow internet (avg. 30–50 Mbps), and post-war corruption will test their patience.
Save on relocation essentials: Packing Cubes Set | Luggage Scale | Travel Toiletry Bag
Your 6-Month Action Plan (Starting Tomorrow)
#### Day 1: Secure Short-Term Housing & Legal Basics (€150–€300)
- Book a 1-month Airbnb in Marijin Dvor or Centar (€40–€70/night) or a hostel (€15–€25/night). Avoid long leases until you scout neighborhoods.
- Register with the Foreigners’ Office (€20 fee) to get a 90-day tourist stay extension (required if staying longer). Bring passport, proof of address, and €50 for potential "expedited processing" (i.e., bribes).
- Buy a local SIM (tip: Airalo eSIM works instantly in 200+ countries, no physical SIM needed) (BH Telecom or m:tel, €5–€10) with 100GB data (€15/month). Public Wi-Fi is unreliable.
#### Week 1: Scout Neighborhoods & Open a Bank Account (€50–€150)
- Visit 5–7 areas (Marijin Dvor, Skenderija, Grbavica, Vratnik, Ilidža) to compare noise, safety, and commute times. Rent ranges:
- Studio: €200–€400/month
- 1-bed: €300–€600/month
- 3-bed (luxury): €800–€1,200/month
- Open a bank account (UniCredit, Raiffeisen, or ProCredit for foreigners). Bring passport, proof of address (Airbnb receipt works), and €100 initial deposit. Expect 3–5 business days for approval.
- Get a local phone number and WhatsApp (used by 90% of locals/businesses).
#### Month 1: Find Long-Term Housing & Learn the Basics (€300–€800)
- Sign a 1-year lease (€200–€600/month, 3-month deposit). Use Facebook Marketplace or 4zida.ba (local listings). Avoid scams—never wire money before seeing the property.
- Learn basic Bosnian phrases (Duolingo or €50 for 10 private lessons). Key survival phrases:
- "Koliko košta?" (How much?)
- "Gdje je…?" (Where is…?)
- "Hvala, ne treba." (No, thank you—useful for pushy vendors.)
- Buy a used bike (€50–€150) or public transport pass (€25/month). Taxis are cheap (€2–€5 per ride) but negotiate fares upfront.
#### Month 2: Build a Social & Professional Network (€100–€300)
- Join expat groups:
- Sarajevo Expats (Facebook, 12K members)
- Digital Nomads Bosnia (Telegram, 3K members)
- Coworking spaces (HUB387: €80/month, Mozaik: €50/month).
- Attend 2–3 meetups (check Meetup.com or Eventbrite). Popular spots:
- Čajdžinica Džirlo (tea house with expat nights)
- Zlatna Ribica (quirky bar for creatives)
- Find a language exchange partner (€0–€10/coffee) via Tandem or HelloTalk.
#### Month 3: Navigate Bureaucracy & Healthcare (€200–€500)
- Apply for temporary residency (€100–€200 in fees, €500–€1,000 if using an agent). Required docs:
- Passport + copies
- Proof of income (€1,500+/month or €10K in savings)
- Lease agreement
- Health insurance (€50–€100/month for private)
- Get a Bosnian ID card (€20, 1–2 weeks processing). Needed for banking, SIM registration, and discounts.
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